Have 178997 on my 2008 Outlook XR FWD, just changed the oil as I always do at the expiration of the oil life warning, plus or minus, always with full synthetic Walmart SuperTech 5W-30, and AC Delco filters.
Besides all transient electrical problems, none really costing much money or trouble
Bad headlight, turned out to be bad wiring to RH headlight, GM fixed this up no questions asked, turned out to eventually be a recall.
Brake Master Cylinder sucking fluid into the manifold, DIY
Water pump started leaking a 58,000 miles, replaced at 114,000 miles, covered by warranty nice work by GM did this the same time as the transmission
Transmission Valve assembly, 2-3 Valve assembly I think, not switching gears properly, also 114,000 miles, bad seals is my guess, $1400
Headlight Switch, left inside lights on, ~$60? DIY install
one front CV joint has been going bad for 25,000 miles, still clicks some,
Dealer says an engine mount is broken, may be why the CV joint is bad, but no drivability concern, everything still looks fine underneath, seals still intact. Haven't decided if I will tackle this or pass the buck, have done a few.
Been fighting with Dealer about bad Bosch Mexico Evaporative Emission Purge Valves, appear to have gotten 3 in a row bad, manufactured between Feb 2017 and June 2017. These valves work as designed, except at engine start seem to stick open or close too slow for Code P0496 set by the ECM. There is very little that can trick the P0496 diagnostic, it is well thought out. Dealer would not replace more than one new bad purge valve before verifying other concerns, so they started on a general campaign to replace anything and everything associated with valve control. I pulled up the reins when my cost exceeded $1,000 and still hadn't fixed it. I have given them a chance to keep working on it once they reimburse me for the money spent so far, next on their list is the ECM. However, I'm pretty well convinced with 28 sets of freeze frame data collected since June 2017 that it is just a set of bad purge valves, intermittent are the hardest to diagnose, of course. I don't know when they start complaining to their Tier 2 supplier, maybe when they actually have to start fixing stuff for free. Next trip is to the local BBB, with lack of response to overwhelming data.
Last item, after almost 10 years in operation, replaced the alternator, $1500 installed at local Chevy dealer, $678 for machine, seemed pretty pricy, but this alternator, along with location of battery behind the seat is what I attribute the almost 10 year life of the battery, still is the OEM battery. The alternator has a state of the art 4 stage charging circuit, temperature compensated, load controlled for demand, like voltage reduced if no charging needed and headlights are not on. The best control for sealed lead acid battery possible.
Just tonight got 2 consecutive P2070 IMT Valve Stuck Open, Bank 1A, that's why poking around here. With the piston oil blowby (1+ ounces) I find in my air intake, (downstream of the mass air flow sensor thank goodness), some talk of carbon/coke buildup in the manifold preventing the valve from changing position seems to make sense. Job for this coming week, will report what I find.
I got 433,000 miles on a 1896 Chevy S10 before I clipped a deer at 65mph, and 254,000 miles on a Buick LeSabre before northern salt took its toll, so I'm encouraged when people are talking about getting another 100,000 miles on a vehicle like this,
2008 Outlook XR FWD Tow Package 174,000 miles