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I took my 2008 Outlook to Midas for a brake job at 58,000 miles today. I have not had any issues, but when I had it in for a rotation and alignment (also checking swaybar end links) a few months ago a different place told me I was close to needing them. I have to get a rental for a work trip, so I figured it was a good time to drop it off for the $99/axle special since the rental office is right across the street.

They just called and said I need brakes all around (figured that), but they can't salvage any of the rotors as they are out of spec. Total came to over $750. I told them to hold off since I want a second opinion at that kind of money.

I have never had any noise problems, pulsing, etc. I'll head back to the place that did the alignment since they seemed trustworthy (didn't sell me endlinks when i thought I needed them). This is the first car I have kept past 35000 miles in 15 years, so I am out of touch on brake pricing. Is this out of line if the rotors really do need replacement? I'm near Detroit if market makes a difference.
 

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I did my own. I purchased all Raybestos ART rotors and Akebono pads for about $400 or so...not home to check records.

You are prolly being charged MSRP plus 15% delivery fee so that's gonna add a lot.

I am thinking u made a good decision for a second opinion, but it isn't gonna be cheap for our parts. I wouldn't be surprised if u need all new rotors as there made pretty cheap nowadays. Mine also had wear grooves that made turning them not possible.
 

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I'd be surprised the rear disc brakes are "below spec" or the rear pads are worn out at 58k miles, unless you do a lot of trailering.

If anything, I'd check with an independent shop in the area and have the front pads, front rotors, and a brake fluid flush completed. The brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water), and @ 4 years old, you are overdue for a fluid change-out.

Brake rotors for the Outlook are cheap - on RockAuto.com, the rear and front GM (OEM) rotors are listed as follows:

ACDELCO Part # 18A2543 More Information About this Part {#19235233}
ROTOR,RR BRK DURASTOP $48.79

ACDELCO Part # 18A2497{#19203681}
ROTOR,FRT BRK DURASTOP $51.79
 

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XRDreamliner said:
I'd be surprised the rear disc brakes are "below spec" or the rear pads are worn out at 58k miles, unless you do a lot of trailering.
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I don't trailer at all and mine were shot at 57K. Links to the photo bucket pics are on the acadiaforum.
 

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I gotta raise the flag :bs: I can hardly believe that all your pads and rotors are completely shot. If you were in stop and go traffic all the time it might be something to pause and consider but nothing about this sounds right. I really hope that your second opinion comes up with better results and if they check fine report that place to the BBB.
 

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ive been thinking about your post-- and definitely get a 2nd opinion....


I say this because I live in Los Angeles and commute everyday.. and it involved plenty of stop and go rush hr traffic.

I had posted this on the Traverse forum a while back- when I had 40,600 miles. Im now nearing 45000.

Just did my tire rotation.
I snapped pics of the brake pads. 40,600 miles.
These are the rear pads.



the front



in the front its hard to see one of the pads via the peep hole.
Ill have to keep an eye on it in the future just because you cant see the pads thickness too well.

But looking around the caliper- you can see the pad and what I believe to be the metal piece that would contact the rotor once the pad gets low.
I *THINK* this was the rear wheel....



 

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RB, judging by your pics @ 40K, you ought to get 80K out of yours easy.

50K is sooner than I've ever done a brake job. I just did my Mazda3's rears at 95K and the fronts had a lot left on them. I'm at 106K and the local muffler shop said they were still good. They'll probably go to 120K. I've been told that 4 wheel disc systems wear the rears out first these days.

On my Odyssey I think I went 60K-70K on the fronts and well over 100K on the rear drums.

Had the Outlook into the same muffler shop for an oil change and was told the brakes are fine all around at 55K.

Next time have 'em show ya. If the pads aren't down close to 1/16" thick, keep using 'em.
 

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I hope they last as good as my 03 Trailblazer.
ON that one- 160,000 and I still have the factory rears on.
Fronts I changed at 77,000 with some pad left.
 

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I was told in not too long before getting rid of the Outlook (Feb 2011) that I would be needing brakes soon. Since I traded it in with just over 33,600 miles on it if you get more mileage on your brakes I am very impressed.

I do though about 80% in town stop and go driving.

My husbands 2005 350Z we had to have rear brakes installed and he didn't even have 39,000 miles on it yet. Most of his driving is interstate to work.
 

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I wonder how many mechanics say it's time to change brakes when there's significant pad left. Like I said, I don't change mine until it's less than 1/16". The typical pad starts out about 3/8"-1/2" thick. I would bet that many owners are told it's time for brakes at with 1/8" of pad left. Say you're at 40K at that point and assuming an even wear rate, that's about 20K of life left!

Most folks don't know what to look for and I bet mechanics don't actually show them, they just say 'it's time for brakes'. New brakes at 40K either mean very heavy brake usage or an opportunistic mechanic.
 

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As for the Outlook the dealership is the one who said I needed brakes. I took it to who I had been using for my other vehicles and he showed me what he was seeing and said I could get by for another six months.

As for my husband's 350Z you could tell by the sound that the rear brakes were shot. Had them replaced by my mechanic, rotors and pads, then within a couple weeks had an issue. The caliper had locked on one of the brakes in the closed position and ruined the pad as well as the rotor.

I usually do not take a mechanics word I will get out there and have them show me.
 

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I should have mentioned that a performance car like the 350Z is going to have a more aggressive set up that may wear faster, much like performance tires wear faster. Of course, a failed component like a locked caliper is going to make short work of your pads as well.

Good for you for taking a look and making them show you, I bet you are the exception rather than the rule.

Like I said, I've never gotten less than 50K out of a set of pads, but maybe I'm an exception rather than the rule too.
 

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I did my brakes at 60K miles and used the ceramic pads. I did it myself. My rotors didn't need to be turned, so I was quite lucky. The ceramic pads make quite a difference. Stopping distance was greatly shortened. I used Duralast Gold Brake pads from Auto Zone.
 

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mntnpeak said:
I did my brakes at 60K miles and used the ceramic pads. I did it myself. My rotors didn't need to be turned, so I was quite lucky. The ceramic pads make quite a difference. Stopping distance was greatly shortened. I used Duralast Gold Brake pads from Auto Zone.
You do know they come with ceramic pads right?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I never got around to getting a second opinion until I picked up a nail in my tire this week. I stopped by the place that I bought two tires from about 18 months ago (I'm bad at rotation). They told me that my fronts were getting close with 20% left. Rear were fine at 50%. They did not give me a firm quote since there is no urgent need to do anything, but said they typically charge $250-300 per axle for a full pad/rotor/caliper job.
 

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You were at 58K, let's assume you're at 60K now. If you've got 20% left, you've got 12K until they're gone, assuming the same driving habits.

Saw a friend from church who is a service manager at an RV dealer, but worked in the car business for dealers and independent shops for years and we got to talking about brake jobs. He said the industry standard is to recommend replacement when the linings are the same thickness as the backing plates, in my experience that's about a tenth of an inch or so (which he agreed is too soon). I'm betting your 20% left pads are in that neighborhood, or less.

In my mind, the customer ought to be educated. Tell 'em they've got about 0.1" left and, based on their mileage, they ought to have 'em checked again in XK miles. In your case, I'd say no more than 8K and you ought to have 'em checked again and likely replaced at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'll need tires before the snow flies, so they recommended I just take care of the front brakes then and leave the rear as is. That will probably be around 8000 miles more. Looks like it will be an expensive October...
 

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My 09 XR has 96,600+ on the original pads and rotors. Pads still at 3/16ths and rotors flat and smooth as silk. Having trouble understanding some of the issues people are having. I have logged many trips through the Smokeys and pulled trailers and have never had as much as a warped rotor vibration. :banghead:
 

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My Outlook has a bit of a pulse from warped rotors at about 58K now.

My Mazda3 is at 108K on the original front brakes. Rears were changed at 95K. I drive a lot of highway miles, my ~45 mile round trip commute is probably ~40 highway miles.
 
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