Just one last cut and paste post made by Hog about the sunroof leaks which might give you some background information about this problem. It was original copied from Hog and posted by bsox on the Enclave board.
This is the by far the best post I have seen regarding leaks and everyone with a leaker should take this with them to their appt. I thought it needed its own heading to draw people to it as many may not read it inside another thread. Thank you to HOG for this post!
The biggest concern for repeat water leaks with sunroofs is that the techs are short cutting the repair the first time.
There are five steps involved with this repair. Before you can diagnois this properly, the headliner has to come down and possibly
out of the car. This is not a hard job, it just sounds like it.
Watertest the car, without the headliner in the car, it's easy to find the source. The front sunroof drain tubes are one piece and exit into
the dash area with a rubber grommet. This grommet doesn't have a big hole in it for the water to drain out. It has what looks like a
phillips screwdriver slot which has to be removed with a X-Acto knife so no debris can lay in there and clog the tube. The grommet has to
be installed correctly back into the dash or the water will leak into the interior.
The stationary glass on the earlier production cars had four drain holes in the sheetmetal gutter that the staionary glass was sealed into.
The staionary glass has to be completely sealed because there are no drain gutters surrounding the glass. If the glass is not completely sealed,
the water will come through these holes and leak onto the headliner. This is the main cause for water leaking into the rear dome lamp.
These drain holes have to be sealed using windshield urethane. late model cars had two of these holes, and the 09's have none.
The electric sunroof has rear drain tubes that are not quite long enough and they work loose allowing water to leak onto the headliner. The water
can also find its way to the rear dome light. By installing one rubber drain extension on each side and using a tie wrap to secure the drain tube to the sunroof drain nipple, the water will drain where it is suppose to, and not into the interior.
At the back of the car on the roof panel is a plastic molding on the left and right side where the roof and the quarter panels, along with the rear end panel meet. This molding covers up a seam where these panels meet. If the sealer wasn't put on correctly, water will enter the rear of the car and run across the rear of the headliner and exit on the left and right sides by the power lifgate actuator and power outlet on the left side and also on the right side at the rear by the liftgate. The rear "ditch" moldings have to removed and water tested here also.
Some dealers have been fooled into thinking the sunroof module is not sealed properly when in fact it is the stationary glass that is not sealed
properly allowing water to leak onto the headlinerand run towards the front of the car and out at the kick panels by your feet on the left ot right sides. the only way to diagnois this is to remove the sunroof module and water test the seal for the stationary glass. If a leak is found here, the stationary glass has to be removed and reset to eliminate the leak.
The rear drain tubes have to routed above a head curtain air bag bracket so they won't have loop allowing water to lay in the tube instead of draining out. All of the early cars, the tubes were not routed correctly.
The recall for this pays 2.9 hours. If it is done properly, you won't have a repeat repair. The major cause of a repeat repair is the tech not doing the recall properly by following all the steps. I have done cars that were leaking really bad and none have come back. Yes, you will not make any money doing this repair the correct way, but the owner of the car will certainly be gratefull for me following all the steps.
I hope this will help someone enlighten their dealer to do ALL the steps for this recall. It is critical...