[egates]

while the 2007 Outlook XR AWD was in for service, dealer also wanted to do 4 wheel drive transfer case service for 194.95 and rear differential service for 159.95. Car has 57k and they said it should be done at 50k. Any thoughts from someone who has had this done? I'll probably skip the dealer doing it and go to my private mechanic. They also mentioned an additive for the rear diff that binds to the metal - not sure what that is.

 

[rbarrios]

you may want to also ask this on the Traverse/Acadia/Enclave forum... especially the Acadia-- lots more members there with the AWD.

 

[GM Customer Service]

Dear egates,

I have read your post and I have looked through the owner's manual for the 2007 Saturn Outlook. I am sure that you are already aware that there is no mention of a specific time frame or mileage frame to have service done to the transfer case and rear differential. You might want to consider what the dealer recommends, but we certainly recommend that you speak to the Service Manager to discuss the benefits of additional maintenance outside of the Owner's Manual.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service

 

[egates]

Dear egates,

I have read your post and I have looked through the owner's manual for the 2007 Saturn Outlook. I am sure that you are already aware that there is no mention of a specific time frame or mileage frame to have service done to the transfer case and rear differential. You might want to consider what the dealer recommends, but we certainly recommend that you speak to the Service Manager to discuss the benefits of additional maintenance outside of the Owner's Manual.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service

Michelle,
Thanks but as you might have gathered from my other posts - especially the one about steering whine in the Acadia forum, I don't trust my service manager or the service manager at my previous dealer because they've always said I've needed work that I know I've not needed. This could easily be another of those instances and I'd like to know what the community-at-large has to say about this service and also about the prices they are charging for them.
Thanks.
Eric

 

[medicrxdoc]

It doesn't look to hard to do and it doesn't take a lot of fluid so what the dealer is charging is quite a lot for labor.

 

[6Sixathome]

If you can do it yourself, do it. This is where dealers make BIG $$ on stuff that costs them basicly little $$.

 

[XRDreamliner]

I performed a change-out of the rear differential and the transfer case @ 41K miles on my Outlook. The rear diff fluid drained out black, with greasy gunk on the drain bolt magnet. The transfer case fluid was not so dark, with almost no gunk on its drain plug.

For a DIY project, if you are remotely mechanically-inclined, it's an easy job. The most time saving tool is the gear oil pump that I bought @ AutoZone, which is a hand pump that screws onto the GM 75W-90 Gear Oil container - made adding the fluid through the Fill port an easy process.

 

[6Sixathome]

I performed a change-out of the rear differential and the transfer case @ 41K miles on my Outlook. The rear diff fluid drained out black, with greasy gunk on the drain bolt magnet. The transfer case fluid was not so dark, with almost no gunk on its drain plug.

For a DIY project, if you are remotely mechanically-inclined, it's an easy job. The most time saving tool is the gear oil pump that I bought @ AutoZone, which is a hand pump that screws onto the GM 75W-90 Gear Oil container - made adding the fluid through the Fill port an easy process.

Did you have to pull off the plate or was there a drain plug on the rear diff?

 

[XRDreamliner]

Did you have to pull off the plate or was there a drain plug on the rear diff?

No, no plate to pull off. I jacked up the right rear to get better access to the rear diff, and to give me some room to stand up the gear oil container with the hand pump screwed on. The drain and fill plugs are on the driver's side of the differential case. The plugs have a 3/8" female hex (allen) head.

After the fluid has been warmed up to temperature, I would loosen the Fill plug 1st and remove it, to ensure you get air behind the fluid as it drains (minimizes it from splashing out). I would also position the drain pan or a catch funnel as close to the drain plug as your can, again to minimize fluid splashing out. I used a rectangular drain pan, and when the fluid was released, the fluid splashed down and then out because it was too far away from the drain. This gear oil smells - the less clean-up, the better off you'll be.

It's relatively easy access, and I was able to do the drain and refill in less than an hour.