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Today, I finally passed 200,000 miles. The engine still runs as well as when I first brought it home new May 2007. It made me smile.
Here's to another 100,000 miles :cheers:
 

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Nice.

You should also post this on the Acadia forum...
 

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mntnpeak said:
Today, I finally passed 200,000 miles. The engine still runs as well as when I first brought it home new May 2007. It made me smile.
Here's to another 100,000 miles :cheers:
Any major mechanical repairs on the engine? A/C?
 

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I have over 181,000, Water pump, Power steering pump, 3-5-R waveplate transmission rebuild, Throttle Body, 1 Wheel Bearing, Both Struts and rear Shocks. All on my dime. Still love the truck.
Okay, add 2 rear hatch pistons, front hood piston, window switches. Oil pressure switch.
Milkshake in air intake, numerous stabilitrack / traction control messages and Numerous MAF sensors last winter.
The heated windshield washer fluid system was replaced with aftermarket unit, works great.
The headlight recall was performed by myself using an aftermarket, Standard brand part, the substandard Chinese wiring harness looks to be 20 gauge wire, talk about cost cutting.
I had to replace two TPS units on the winter tire set due to corrosion probably due to salt, stem fell apart in my hand, did all four just in case.
 

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electbc said:
I have over 175,000, Water pump, Power steering pump, 3-5-R waveplate transmission rebuild, Throttle Body, 1 Wheel Bearing, Both Struts and rear Shocks. All on my dime. Still love the truck.
2009 w/ 140k. Same repairs as above, minus throttle body, but add: PCM, ECM, fuel injector (stuck open and fried Cat), fuel rail, Bank 1 Cat, 3 oxygen sensors, wheel speed sensor, 3 new window switches, Evap valve, new speaker, new rear wiper arm, new liftgate switch. Probably more but cannot remember offhand. This has been one of those vehicles that is great when running, but a nightmare otherwise. Looking back, these Lambdas were originally engineered and cost-speced in the mid 2000's and appear that every possible cost saving (read cheapening) measure was taken with suppliers and assembly, across the board. GM knows well, all the problems with some of these systems. A goodwill gesture would have been bumper-bumper for 100k and full power train coverage for 200k or similar, given the known problems. I've spent more repairing non-standard wear items on this vehicle than all of my other vehicles combined.

The only saving grace is that once this dies, I'll be getting a Tesla and never worry about IC-related repairs again. Oh, and it will take over a lot of the boring parts of driving.

Here's to the future.
 

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2010 with 107,000

Repairs-
water pump.
 

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202,000 miles on 2008 XE here. 21.1 MPG highway recently. :D

I do use Chevron Techron each oil change and Marvel Miracle Oil occasionally in-between in gas and oil. I switched to full synthetic oil on second oil change. Used synthetic blend on first oil change per mechanic recommendation. Have only changed the oil when monitor showed <5%.
 

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291,000. Only major issue was the timing chain around 200,000-ish and a transfer case around 270,000-ish. Oh, the tranny is messed up and has been since around 130,000 which was a long time ago but GM waited until last year to release the recall...poor form on GM's part. All the other work I've done myself, brakes, struts, sensors, etc... and plan on changing the ignition coils this spring. Hoping to hit 350,000. Good luck!
 

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topdollar69 said:
vwtodd,

when you had the bad cat, what were the symptoms?
CEL with P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). When the light first came on, I reset it a couple of times and there were varying degrees of time between when it would appear again, until finally, it stayed on. Since our next emissions inspection was not for almost a year, I waited until the month it was due to deal with it. Lots of things can throw this code (including leaky exhaust or bad O2 sensor), however, we had just gone through a stuck injector on that bank that dumped raw gas into the exhaust and that almost always fries a cat so I just guessed. Bought OEM one online at discount and had dealer install.

Been working fine ever since.
 

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milkshake

milkshake in air intake ....this was my problem too for years until I had the water pump replaced and drilled out the vent (pvc) from the throttle body to the heads.
 

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198,000 don't drive it everyday but still runs great. Just had some issues with Airbag connection under passenger seat.
Now with that fixed (I hope) getting traction control/stabilitrack. I was a bit low on brake fluid, hopefully that was what that message was all about. The master cylinder may be leaking, further investigation coming.
The milkshake issue was gone for a couple of years after drilling the PCV barb, but I am getting some in the after market catch can I put in.
 

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2009 XE - I have 152,000 miles right now, bought it when it has about 90,000 miles back in 2014. Replaced front struts last year. Running great and hoping to hit that 250,000 mile mark.
 

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Have 178997 on my 2008 Outlook XR FWD, just changed the oil as I always do at the expiration of the oil life warning, plus or minus, always with full synthetic Walmart SuperTech 5W-30, and AC Delco filters.
Besides all transient electrical problems, none really costing much money or trouble
Bad headlight, turned out to be bad wiring to RH headlight, GM fixed this up no questions asked, turned out to eventually be a recall.
Brake Master Cylinder sucking fluid into the manifold, DIY
Water pump started leaking a 58,000 miles, replaced at 114,000 miles, covered by warranty nice work by GM did this the same time as the transmission
Transmission Valve assembly, 2-3 Valve assembly I think, not switching gears properly, also 114,000 miles, bad seals is my guess, $1400
Headlight Switch, left inside lights on, ~$60? DIY install
one front CV joint has been going bad for 25,000 miles, still clicks some,
Dealer says an engine mount is broken, may be why the CV joint is bad, but no drivability concern, everything still looks fine underneath, seals still intact. Haven't decided if I will tackle this or pass the buck, have done a few.
Been fighting with Dealer about bad Bosch Mexico Evaporative Emission Purge Valves, appear to have gotten 3 in a row bad, manufactured between Feb 2017 and June 2017. These valves work as designed, except at engine start seem to stick open or close too slow for Code P0496 set by the ECM. There is very little that can trick the P0496 diagnostic, it is well thought out. Dealer would not replace more than one new bad purge valve before verifying other concerns, so they started on a general campaign to replace anything and everything associated with valve control. I pulled up the reins when my cost exceeded $1,000 and still hadn't fixed it. I have given them a chance to keep working on it once they reimburse me for the money spent so far, next on their list is the ECM. However, I'm pretty well convinced with 28 sets of freeze frame data collected since June 2017 that it is just a set of bad purge valves, intermittent are the hardest to diagnose, of course. I don't know when they start complaining to their Tier 2 supplier, maybe when they actually have to start fixing stuff for free. Next trip is to the local BBB, with lack of response to overwhelming data.
Last item, after almost 10 years in operation, replaced the alternator, $1500 installed at local Chevy dealer, $678 for machine, seemed pretty pricy, but this alternator, along with location of battery behind the seat is what I attribute the almost 10 year life of the battery, still is the OEM battery. The alternator has a state of the art 4 stage charging circuit, temperature compensated, load controlled for demand, like voltage reduced if no charging needed and headlights are not on. The best control for sealed lead acid battery possible.
Just tonight got 2 consecutive P2070 IMT Valve Stuck Open, Bank 1A, that's why poking around here. With the piston oil blowby (1+ ounces) I find in my air intake, (downstream of the mass air flow sensor thank goodness), some talk of carbon/coke buildup in the manifold preventing the valve from changing position seems to make sense. Job for this coming week, will report what I find.
I got 433,000 miles on a 1896 Chevy S10 before I clipped a deer at 65mph, and 254,000 miles on a Buick LeSabre before northern salt took its toll, so I'm encouraged when people are talking about getting another 100,000 miles on a vehicle like this,
 

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2008 w/ 210,000+

If it had not been for the 100k warranty, it would have been in scrap yard years ago. Once we surpassed 100k, took a gamble kept driving...no problems since! Under warranty, they replaced transmission, intake manifold, wiring harness and multiple recall items. I did have all the rear suspension bushings replaced. Still a nice car. Never a problem with A/C. Still has original battery (just wait...it will be dead tomorrow).
 

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P2070 Update

Now have 182,000 miles on vehicle, did absolutely nothing about the P2070 sticky valve, it has not shown up again, 6 weeks / 2000 miles later, so assume the gunk that made it stick was dislodged, and may take another 10 years to accumulate.
 
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