Saturn Outlook Forum banner

mold in evaporator core and ductwork

23572 Views 20 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  BigTallV
one item from my recent trip to a new dealer for service: HVAC System Disinfectant Service ($94) because of mold in the evaporator core and ductwork. 2007 Outlook XR AWD 57k miles. any thoughts on this? its been hot and humid lately (NY LI). car is parked outside not in a garage. Is this just one of those things they try to get away with? They also tried to sell me new wiper blades ($45) because my 3 month old ones were streaking (they're fine). There were a couple of other things I didn't like either but posting on them separately.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Here in Los Angeles its not as humid.
But what I do when I do use the AC...
If im several miles away from my destination- I turn off AC and just let AIR circulate through. to dry out the inside of the ducts and core.
If im by myself and not too hot outside--- I roll down all the windows- turn air on HIGH- and select the hottest setting.
I let the air blow hot for a while. this to dry and kill the mold.

This seems to work for me. minimal smell from my AC vents.
Dear egates,

This type of service is not listed in the owner's manual for the 2007 Outlook. If you have been experiencing a foul smell within your vehicle, this might be something that you would want to think about, but we certainly recommend that you speak to the Service Manager to discuss the benefits of additional maintenance outside of the Owner's Manual.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service
GM Customer Service said:
Dear egates,

This type of service is not listed in the owner's manual for the 2007 Outlook. If you have been experiencing a foul smell within your vehicle, this might be something that you would want to think about, but we certainly recommend that you speak to the Service Manager to discuss the benefits of additional maintenance outside of the Owner's Manual.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service
see my other posts about trusting service managers. no, I've never smelled anything - they told me I needed this while the car was in for timing chain replacement.
I've smelled that before too, I also shut the air off a little bit before I get stopped, my wife on the other hand shuts it off right before she turnes off the key ::).
Dear Mr. Gates,

Thank you for the additional information. I do understand the lack of trust within the dealerships that you have visited.

I hope that you find the information that you are seeking within the Saturn Outlook Forum community. The members on here are full of valuable information. :D

I hope that you have an amazing weekend planned.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service
I had the same foul odor problem a while back while Saturn dealers still existed.

While still under warranty, I took the car in and the service tech made a software change to make the moisture detector built into our cars turn on the AC/heater blowers when moisture is detected after the engine is shut off. I would sometimes return after a short period to find the blowers just "blowin' their hearts out". Worked fine for a while but eventually the blowers would run so long that the battery went dead. Took a look for pinched AC drain lines and sure enough found one so the CORRECT fix was a pinched drain line and not a software change. :mad:

Now out of warranty but with extended warranty, I returned to the Saturn Authorized Service center (Chevy dealer) to have the software returned to factory specs to save my newly purchased battery ($165), learning that a fix to fix a GM techs' incorrect fix would cost me shop fees and supplies. :angryfire: Extended warranty is drive train only.

Bottom line: Don't let them do the software mod unless you are ready to replace your battery more often.
See less See more
I was unaware of a software change; thanks for the info and sorry you had to be the guinea pig ;)
papamike said:
I had the same foul odor problem a while back while Saturn dealers still existed.

While still under warranty, I took the car in and the service tech made a software change to make the moisture detector built into our cars turn on the AC/heater blowers when moisture is detected after the engine is shut off. I would sometimes return after a short period to find the blowers just "blowin' their hearts out". Worked fine for a while but eventually the blowers would run so long that the battery went dead. Took a look for pinched AC drain lines and sure enough found one so the CORRECT fix was a pinched drain line and not a software change. :mad:

Now out of warranty but with extended warranty, I returned to the Saturn Authorized Service center (Chevy dealer) to have the software returned to factory specs to save my newly purchased battery ($165), learning that a fix to fix a GM techs' incorrect fix would cost me shop fees and supplies. :angryfire: Extended warranty is drive train only.

Bottom line: Don't let them do the software mod unless you are ready to replace your battery more often.
I remember my '07 OUTLOOK doing this a few times (blowers going with the key off) but never in my '09.
I don't think all vehicles have this feature "turned on."

Also, remember that there is a TSB about turing off the after blow feature for repeated dead batteries.
here you go.

Intermittent Battery Draw, Dead Battery or HVAC Odor
May 1, 2011 9:42 PM
On some 2007-2010 OUTLOOK; 2008-2011 Enclave; 2009-2011 Traverse; and 2007-2011 Acadia, Silverado, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, and Escalade models, an intermittent no crank condition may be found due to a dead battery.


A recent Engineering study has shown that the vehicles identified above could experience a dead battery as a result of the HVAC afterblow function being turned on at the dealership (refer to Service Information document 1865501).


The afterblow calibration may cause the blower motor to operate in a series of operating cycles which, over time, may cause the battery to drain. This is more likely to occur if the vehicle is not driven long enough between ignition cycles to maintain a sufficient battery state of charge.


Until further notice, it is recommended that the afterblow feature not be enabled, to prevent the potential of a dead battery. Also disable the afterblow feature if a vehicle has an intermittent dead battery condition that cannot be duplicated.
See less See more
rbarrios said:
here you go.

Intermittent Battery Draw, Dead Battery or HVAC Odor
May 1, 2011 9:42 PM
On some 2007-2010 OUTLOOK; 2008-2011 Enclave; 2009-2011 Traverse; and 2007-2011 Acadia, Silverado, Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, and Escalade models, an intermittent no crank condition may be found due to a dead battery.


A recent Engineering study has shown that the vehicles identified above could experience a dead battery as a result of the HVAC afterblow function being turned on at the dealership (refer to Service Information document 1865501).


The afterblow calibration may cause the blower motor to operate in a series of operating cycles which, over time, may cause the battery to drain. This is more likely to occur if the vehicle is not driven long enough between ignition cycles to maintain a sufficient battery state of charge.


Until further notice, it is recommended that the afterblow feature not be enabled, to prevent the potential of a dead battery. Also disable the afterblow feature if a vehicle has an intermittent dead battery condition that cannot be duplicated.
Good find :thumb:
Dear papamike,

I have read your post about your experience with your 2007 Outlook. I apologize that you the situation handled like it was. However, I would like to thank you for sharing your experience with the other members.

Don't hesitate to contact me with questions and/or concerns.

Sincerely,
Michelle, GM Customer Service
I'm happy to see that this thread took a useful turn and uncovered some interesting information. I had started the thread just wondering if anyone has had this expensive service/maintenance item done at a dealer to disinfect the evaporator core and ducts or if the service advisor was just loading me up with stuff to make money. I've never smelled anything, supposedly their mechanic did. I don't think my Outlook has this feature turned to blow while the car is off and it sounds like its a bad idea when it causes the batteries to go dead. I'll try some of the manual recommendations made by others here. I wonder if its easy to spot a drain line being crimped/blocked/kinked, etc. I'd have to say mine drains pretty well based on all the liquid under the car (and its just water ;)) when I park it. Thanks.
I usually run the fan without the A.C compressor for the last ten minutes of driving to blow out the moisture. It is easy to become desensitized to a little bit of foul musty smell. They do sell some spray to eliminate the mold on the core, I have yet to purchase it.
A shot of lysol into the cowl area while you have the fan running on high in the passenger compartment will help. So long as the system pulls in a percentage of fresh air from outside, the lysol will get sucked in as well and make its way over the ductwork and core/coils. I get this only at certain points in the year, even at that, not regularly. Most noticeable is the first time turning the A/C on in the spring or summer.
BigTallV said:
A shot of lysol into the cowl area while you have the fan running on high in the passenger compartment will help. So long as the system pulls in a percentage of fresh air from outside, the lysol will get sucked in as well and make its way over the ductwork and core/coils. I get this only at certain points in the year, even at that, not regularly. Most noticeable is the first time turning the A/C on in the spring or summer.
I get that smell too, the Lysol in the cowl area is a great idea :thumb:
Would Bleach be too harsh on the evaporator?
hmmm bleach...
Id stick with lysol.
I would use the stuff that is commercially available for the auto ductwork.

I have an aluminium pool ladder, granted it is in contact with chlorine for a much longer period of time, but it lasts only about 2 years because of corrosion at the welds. So I would also NOT suggest it because of its strong oxidation properties.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top