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Do you have to reset the tire pressure sensors when you rotate?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JF7FSU said:
Do you have to reset the tire pressure sensors when you rotate?
Yes, you need to put the sensors into learn mode. The turn signals flash according to the order of the tire location that needs to be relearned. I let out about 5-10 psi and then the horn beeps and it's off to the next tire. It's a straightforward process.
 

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What about the one that comes with the car?
 

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tys said:
What size socket did you use for those lug nuts? I don't have any large enough to do my own.

Chris
Don't use a standard socket set on auto lugnuts! You'll never get it tight enough for safety. You'll never get enough torque on the lugs. Only use the lug wrench that comes with the vehicle or another lug wrench that you get from an auto parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
tys said:
What size socket did you use for those lug nuts? I don't have any large enough to do my own.

Chris
It's a 22mm socket. I used a torque wrench to apply the 140 lb ft (190 N-m) of force stated in the manual (pg 481).

Don't just rely on the Outlook's lug wrench and what "feels" tight. Invest in a torque wrench to insure proper seating.
 

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Was changing the oil straight forward?

Is the filter accessable from above or only from below?

I only have 1300 miles on my Outlook XR but I'm thinking of doing my own oil changes when the time comes.

Key1
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's a relatively easy process. I accessed the filter from above. Unfortunately, some oil from the filter will drip onto the frame and should be cleaned up right away.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wasn't too bad. At least the lights point you in the right direction and the horn let's you know when its time to move on.
The neighbors on the other hand, had other thougts as to what I was doing.
 

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Well, I'm at 3200 miles on the FWD XR and about to tackle my first oil change.
Any reccomendations on what's the best oil to use for the first oil change?
I would take it to the dealer but I have trust issues since I suspect I've been burned in the past when I was told the oil was changed and it obviously was not.
Key1
 

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key1cc said:
Well, I'm at 3200 miles on the FWD XR and about to tackle my first oil change.
Any reccomendations on what's the best oil to use for the first oil change?
I would take it to the dealer but I have trust issues since I suspect I've been burned in the past when I was told the oil was changed and it obviously was not.
Key1
Was it a Saturn dealer that burned you on an oil change? I always like to use Valvoline.
 

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No it was not saturn. It was a local gas station quite a few years ago on a previous vehicle. I had just had the oil changed several hundred miles earlier and it was darker than new but not black like it looks after 3000 miles. The hired mechanic charged me for an oil change even though he did not change it. I noticed it was the same after I got home and checked the color using the dipstick. I went back and told him he obviously did not change the oil.......... he did not deny it. He said his fee is the same whether he changes it or checks it to see if it needs changing (what a bunch of crock). He said it did not need changing based on the color....long story short I was refunded and he is long gone....

Back on topic....I'm thinking about trying synthetic oil but I'm not sure if there is a real difference.
Key1
 

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I stick to conventional oil and change every 3k. I know that you can longer between oil changes w/ synthetic but I just have a hard time going longer than 3k miles without changing the oil, and synthetic is a little expensive as well in my opinion.
 

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I know that conventional oils have come a long way, but synthetics are still far superior.

You will save money by not changing it every 3000 miles, following the oil life indicator, and not dump toxic stuff into the environment (one way or another) as often.

The overhead cam, variable valve train is sensitive to oil quality much more than older American overhead valve engine designs. Newest pollution control requirements need a high temperature at the combustion chamber and there is also higher compression. Conventional oil just doesn't cut it.

The required 5W30 GM 6094M spec oils on the market are mostly synthetic or semi-synthetic. Be careful that whoever changes your oil, even the dealer, uses this spec. I suspect many don't think it makes much difference, but from what I have read, the engine requires certain oil flow characteristics, I suspect for the variable valve timing which is usually hydraulic.

TM
 

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I read in one of the other threads (on these three sister forums) that someone suggested moving to synthetic oil on the 2nd oil change. Others also mentioned it is very difficult to get the drain plug and filter off on the 1st change. Since I have to go to the dealer Monday to get the LED light in the passenger sideview mirror fixed....I decided to let the dealer do this 1st chage ($34+tax) at 3200 miles....and then I will take over after that starting at 5 or 6 thousand miles with synthetic.
Key1
 

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I don't know if GM uses special "factory fill" oil, but if they do, and they recommend a certain interval, I would follow factory, not dealer, recommendations.

TM
 
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