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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the background for my 2009 Outlook AWD:

A couple weeks ago I replaced a coil pack and the purge valve, based on captured trouble codes. That took care of the awful shuddering I'd been experiencing, but a week or so later the Stabilitrack/ABS lights came on. My wife did say she was backing out of a spot one day and the brakes were very spongy, but we have not experienced that issue again since. I think that happened a couple days before the lights came on.

Two days ago I took the intake manifold off again to check and make sure I didn't miss reconnecting anything, it all looked good.

Yesterday I hosed off the magnetic sensor rings on the wheels, definitely got them cleaner, lights still came on.

This morning I checked brake fluid level, based on reading here that the master cylinder could be leaking into the booster. Level looks fine, though the fluid is dark now. Wife does say that she feels the brake pedal kind of "clunk" as she pushes it sometimes, almost as if it is catching on something.

I've read here that it could be a faulty MAP sensor, but I'll be honest, I can't find where that is located. I've looked and looked; some diagrams show it to be where the purge valve is, some show it mounted under and to the side of the manifold.

Does the purge valve take place of the MAP?

Anyone have any other suggestions for me, what else could be causing this?

I love the idea of this car, but this thing has been a lemon from day 1. Last Government Motors product I ever buy. The fact we started reporting problems before our warranty ran out, but they magically weren't able to find the source of the problem until a month after the warranty expired, sealed that fate.
 

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Re: Stabilitrack/ABS lights coming on

Follow this link and click to use the old version of the page.

It will download the factory service manual for the Enclave, Traverse, Acadia, and Outlook. All are similar and use almost all of the same parts. You should be able to find the information you are asking about.

https://mega.co.nz/#!zlFDEIJZ!lhEvdcmJL895CqO3HHkWfb1_8lGKFRajYnKT9Uac1i8
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Stabilitrack/ABS lights coming on

Ok, I'll take a look at that.

Something else I noticed today, the cruise control has stopped working. The light on the button will come on, but the speed won't "set", and nothing shows on the digital display when it would normally what speed was set. Maybe it's an ECM problem that affects both cruise and stabilitrack?
 

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Re: Stabilitrack/ABS lights coming on

SR said:
Ok, I'll take a look at that.

Something else I noticed today, the cruise control has stopped working. The light on the button will come on, but the speed won't "set", and nothing shows on the digital display when it would normally what speed was set. Maybe it's an ECM problem that affects both cruise and stabilitrack?
Check the wires on the wheel speed sensors. A broken or loose connection can set the lights off that you mentioned, and the cruise will not work either. You didn't mention any additional codes showing now, correct? If you don't have a code reader, stop at an auto parts store where most of them will read the codes for free. Even if nothing is showing, perhaps something will show up as pending.

Very seldom has it been an ECM problem. Usually a component of the braking system, speed sensors or their wire, or a sensor under the hood.
 

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Re: Stabilitrack/ABS lights coming on

I've had two ABS/Stabilitrack light problems related to the brake/wheel speed sensor system.

First problem, I had the encoder ring (part of wheel bearing that works with ABS) literally separate from the bearing, causing the light to stay on. This requires a new wheel bearing. Only happened once, rear driver's side.

A more common problem is the brake position sensor under the dash. I have replaced at least 4 of these on our car myself. Symptoms of it going bad are:

- intermittent ABS/TC light or combination of both, sometimes when pushing brake pedal, others randomly
- dead giveaway to bad position sensor is when you push the brake pedal in park, the shifter lock will not release

First time, I took it to the dealer and it was around $175 to get fixed. After looking into it, I discovered the part on Amazon (link below) and changing it is 5 minutes tops, right under driver's dash cover by brake pedal. All you need is a flathead screwdriver to release panel clips, then either a small socket or end wrench to remove the sensor. Fixes the lights every time when you have the faulty shift lock.

For some reason, this part has been going bad approximately every 15-20k miles, and for $15 shipped on Amazon, is an easy fix.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB7XYW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Welcome to the Outlook constant repair lifestyle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Stabilitrack/ABS lights coming on

Took it to O'Reilly's and had them through a scanner on it, all they got was "Brake switch circuit", so I guess I'll need to take it to the dealer and have a more comprehensive scan done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, I did something right Sunday, two days now and the problem seems to be fixed.

Here is what I did Sunday:

1). Based on another thread I read here, I unplugged the plugs from the body control module under the dash, but some dielectric grease on them, and plugged them back in. This is supposed to be in response to a known problem with the pins developing corrosion. I don't know why the grease would help pins already corroded, but the poster said it worked for him, so I figured it was worth a shot.

2). I pulled the wheel speed sensor from each caliper to take a look and see if I found any obvious damage. On removing them I saw eCh had a little window,for lack of a better term. I wiped each window off, then reinstalled the sensors. Didn't even unplug them for this.

3). Just to find out where they were, I looked for the speed sensor plugs in the engine compartment, they are not real easy to get too. I suppose, while doing this, I may have reseated the plug on one or both front sensors, but I kind of doubt it.

I expect #2 on the list is what took care of the problem. Maybe a little pebble or piece of mud had gotten caught between the sensor and magnetic ring or something, blocking its ability to sense it.

2 days now, and the stabilitrack light is still off and cruise control is working again.

Checking the sensors took probably <10 minutes per tire, including taking off the wheels, BCM project probably only took 10 minutes, finding the plugs took 15-20.

I'll update again if the problem resurfaces again soon, but these are definitely a couple easy things you should try if you suffer the same problems.
 

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This is supposed to be in response to a known problem with the pins developing corrosion. I don't know why the grease would help pins already corroded, but the poster said it worked for him, so I figured it was worth a shot.
If there was corrosion, just the act of unplugging the cables would scrape off some of the corrosion and reestablish some electrical contact. The grease would, besides lubricate, protect the contacts from moisture and further corrosion. If there was signs of corrosion the contacts should have been cleaned with a Scotchbrite pad or brass wire brush then greased.
 
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