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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know the weight amount I can tow with an Outlook, without having the optional towing package?
It is slim pickings for 2007's now & the one I am interested in does not have the towing package option. I can install a hitch after-market though, but it would not have the transmission cooling option.
 

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4500 lbs is with the towing package and the question was how much could it tow without the towing package and 2000 lb is the spec listed for towing without the towing package. If someone wants to add a hitch to an Outlok that does not have the added features (extra cooling) that the towing package provides then the weight drops considerably.
 

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If you do really need the towing package, you could probably find a '08 with what you want or even have one built. With the current incentive difference of $500 dollars between an '08 and an '07, not to mention the problems that were solved in the '08s that you will need to make sure are taken care of in the '07, once you start factoring in depreciation of an '07 compared to an '08 are you really coming out ahead by getting an '07. Just some food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tips. Towing max is $2000 lbs. Ended up buying the XR without towing package. So far no problems except for power locks not working, and a momentary vibration somewhere when I start to accererate. Will have this checked out. I can have an aftermarket hitch put on. I saw them for as low as $100.00, on line. This is far less than the $300+ that Saturn parts wants. Installation requires that muffler be lowered though. My boat/motor/trailer package totals 1570 LBS, so I don't foresee any problems. I pulled it with my RAV4 for 10 years. Dealer did however tell me that any aftermarket add-ons to the vehicle should be done by GM service technicians. This would ensure the warrantee would not be affected. Dealer had some warrantee horror stories about aftermarket parts being put on new vehicles.
 

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The whole reason you pay more for the towing package, is for the TOWHAUL option. I would'nt put an aftermarket hitch on the vehicle just to save a few bucks...the towhaul option is there for a reason..adjust the RPM's, transmission, etc.. this little six needs it ...I smell tranny problems in your future.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just an update on my previous entry.
Ordered a Hidden Hitch & installed it myself. Dealer installed new fusebox (no charge under warranty). Trailer lights work fine & I did not need to split any wires.
Although, I did not buy the towing package, towing was not a problem at all.
The longest tow this summer was a 4 hour drive up north, and back, with family of 4 and gear for a week. Quite a heavy load.
No over-heating; no trany problems.
I did however have to shift manually - particularly up hills. I preferred a lower gear than the one automatically set (I guess that is what the towing button is all about).
Gas milage dropped a bit, but that would be normal. I would probably not want to tow anything larger/heavier with this vehicle. Some advice would be to try to keep the weight down: keeping the gas tank below half way; an empty gas tank on the boat is also good idea; and for heaven sakes, buy your cases of beer when you reach your destination.

The biggest problem now is that I will have to wait until next summer to towing again.
 

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Your tranny won't fail on your first trip unless you massively overload, it will most probably not fail on a few more trips. However, keep in mind that max tow rating, in your case 2000 lbs, includes driver only. If you had 3 extra people and their gear you need to subtract that weight from 2000 lbs limit. If you do the math, you are border lining the limit or you even slightly over. So if you keep stressing the tranny with all that weight and without additional cooling, it will just die one day....
 

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J33,

I believe you need to subtract the weight of the additional load as well as the weight of what's being towed and the tow vehicle from the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating to see if you are over weight. Not the additional load from the tow rating.
 

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Just joined, but I'm very interested in the towing aspect of this vehicle.

fyi, you are both partially right:
There are 2 ways to work the numbers when you need to know your ACTUAL towing capacity.
1. The best way is to always start with your GCVWR (combined rating). Not sure what that is without the tow package, but I believe it's 9700 lbs with the package on the Outlook. You then subtract all of your known weights. I think an empty Outlook is 4700 lbs, leaving 5000 lbs for the loaded trailer and whatever you put in the vehicle. No adjustment needed for the driver since you are looking at actual weights, not an abstract rating. If you know exactly what your loaded trailer weighs, subtract that from 5000, and what left is your capacity for people and stuff in the truck. If you haven't bought the trailer yet, then subtract the weight of your family and your estimate for vehicle cargo from 5000, leaving you with your actual towing capacity. Note that whatever these calcs leave remaining, the trailer can never exceed the MAX tow rating (4500 lbs).

2. For vehicles that don't list a GCVWR, you have to do it the stupid way. Assume you can tow the MAX tow raring (4500 lbs), with nothing else in the vehicle but standard fluids (gasoline, etc) and the driver. Then, for every pound of people, pets, or cargo you put in the truck, you must subtract an equal amount from the MAX tow rating to get your actual tow rating.

What I don't like about this is that it limits you. In option 1 above, you can see that you can actually tow a 4500 lbs trailer with 500 lbs of "whatever" in the truck. Yet method 2 only allows the driver (150 lbs, 200 lbs, whatever). I much prefer to use actual weights subtracted from the GCVWR.
 
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