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TSC1969 said:
Thanks for the info. I do have a question regarding the additive package.
I converted to synthetic for the "higher quality, cold temp start up properties and the longer change intervals."
For me, the longer change intervals may not apply due to the shorter driving distances I do. It may take me 6 months to rack up 4 - 5,000 miles.
I know the recommended change interval for conventional oil is 3 months or 3,000 miles. What should the realistic oil change interval be for synthetic oil? Does the "additive package" allow for longer change intervals regarding time or is the longer change intervals only regarding miles?
Tim C.
I would do whatever it says in the owner's manual, whether it's synthetic or not. I'm sure you could get away with longer, but in my eyes, oil is relatively cheap and can prevent a major repair. I'm not sure what the Outlook's manual says, I haven't received mine yet. I would just make sure that the oil that you are using has the API classification that the owner's manual requires, I think someone mentioned it earlier in the thread.

As far as time goes, as long as you are replacing your oil filter at least once per year, the oil itself will be fine. Now, if this is strictly a tow vehicle or operating under harsher conditions, I would consider changing it more often. There are usually a couple of maintenance schedules in the owners manual regarding driving habits, I would check those out.

Like I said earlier, synthetic is far superior in cold start conditions, but will have almost identical properties to conventional oil once operating temp is reached.
 

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:thumb: Thanks for the info.
Tim C.
 

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"....The algorithm resets itself at each service. "

i found out within a week of picking up my '08 XE FWD (Oct.20th) and reading the manual . . . . the operator of the vehicle has to reset the oil life within the 'stem' operated (basic) DIC !

5w30 so says Saturn/GM anything else and something goes wrong they'll probably void any warranty Tough enough sometimes even when ya follow things to the 'letter' to get any corp. honour a warranty !!!

I know of one vehicle owner who took his allure into a buick dealership THEY put in 10w30 HE forced THEM into draining and replacing with the manufacturers spec oil !!! They don't diddle 'round anymore (not with him anyways) :thumb: ! especially as they ( Sat'GM ) print on the oil cap -- 5w30 !!

And i won't be depending on a comp' chip to tell me it is time to change i tend to keep a record of maintenance, so 5000km (+/- a few) time tah change !


IMHO

doug c
 

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Thanks for that list. Great info!
Tim C. :thumb:
07Lookout said:
Here's a handy list of GM Spec GM6094M approved oils.
 

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the OLM measures nothing in the oil.
its an algorithm that takes into account many factors fron sensors that are plugged into the mathematical formula to predict the oil life left.
Though you must still check your oil level manually.

Its been found that the algorithm was off by a bit on some of the model years that got the reprogramming.
On my other GM's- the OLM is spot in accurate.

In order to predict the oil life- you have to use an oil that meets GM specs- so that the oil life can be accurately predicted.
Why they goofed on the DI's- I dont know.
 

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Mobile 1 in the Outlook and Pennzoil Platinum in the Enclave.
 

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I used Castrol Syntec until they came out with Castrol Edge. I use 5w30 year round in Indiana and have 84,000 on my 09 Outlook XR that I bought new. I also use Fram Tough Guard oil filters. Using a filter with an anti-drainback valve helps prevent dry starts. Synthetics help with quick lubrication in cold weather as their flow rate is better than conventional oils. I have had none of the engine problems that others have complained about.

Yes the DIC receives its numbers from the computer ( I used to think it was like an hour meter. Ha Ha ). It constantly receives ambiant and engine temperatures as well as engine speeds and other readings from the vehicle sensors to determine when the oil should be changed.
 

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When I discussed this same issue with my local dealer he recommended to go with Mobil 1. The way GM designed the engine compartment, it's like an oven in there especially in warmer climates. It's too bad GM could not design a better oil filter position or otherwise I could save $30 an oil change by doing it myself instead of the dealer. It's just another way GM is making money...
 

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jollygood4u said:
When I discussed this same issue with my local dealer he recommended to go with Mobil 1. The way GM designed the engine compartment, it's like an oven in there especially in warmer climates. It's too bad GM could not design a better oil filter position or otherwise I could save $30 an oil change by doing it myself instead of the dealer. It's just another way GM is making money...
Mobil 1 is the worst performer in the 3.6 DI engines....
With a little patience- you can do the oil change easily. 1st time is hard... after that-- its ok.
 
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